Grand Cayman, the largest of the three islands that make up the Cayman Islands, is a haven for sun worshippers and water enthusiasts with its idyllic white sand beaches and crystal clear waters. The most famous beach and the focal point of Cayman’s tourism industry is Seven Mile Beach, although due to erosion it is now only 5 1/2 miles long. Approximately 2.5 million tourists visit the Cayman Islands each year, most of them cruise ship passengers. Occasionally, up to seven cruise ships dock here at the same time.

One of the most popular tours is to Stingray City, a stretch of shallow sandy seabed in the North Sound that is a gathering place for southern stingrays. In the past, local fishermen would anchor their boats in the calm shallows while they gutted their catch and threw the scraps overboard. The stingrays learned that a free daily meal was available. Today, about two dozen stingrays still visit the site, although these days it is the tourist boats that feed them squid. Tourists stand on the sandbar and the stingrays glide around them, seemingly not minding being touched and even kissed.

We take the dinghy from Governor’s Creek out to Stingray City and drop anchor about 100 feet from the tourist boats and snorkel towards the crowd, keeping a healthy distance.

It is a very uncomfortable feeling to watch this spectacle. According to some wildlife activists, the feeding has changed the behavior of the stingrays in undesirable ways. For example, they are solitary creatures, but the tourist attraction brings them together, which can lead to disease transmission. They have also become less healthy (they don’t normally eat squid) and have developed unusual schedules (they are normally nocturnal).

But I have to admit that we enjoy watching these fish so closely. They are (unfortunately) no longer shy, which allows us to take our time observing them – no touching and kissing necessary.

The next stop on our route that day is Starfish Point, a beautiful quiet beach with lots of starfish. Unfortunately, many tourists cannot help themselves and pick them up, despite the signs on the beach asking them not to. Touching a starfish can cause them stress from the disturbance. It can also be harmful due to chemicals on human skin like sunscreen. In the worst case, they can die of suffocation if taken out of the water.

Our last stop of the day is Grand Cayman’s Bioluminescent Bay. Since we have some time to kill before dark, we stop for a drink at Kaibo Beach Bar and Restuarant. Their specialty is the Mud Slide – delicious, if a bit expensive! As soon as it gets dark, we take the dinghy over to Bio Bay. This is not the first time we have seen the amazing phenomenon of bioluminescence, which comes alive at night, but the fact that living organisms can emit light never ceases to astound us.

Grand Cayman is almost entirely surrounded by reefs that lie in about 30 feet of water, not ideal for snorkeling. But we do find some reefs closer to shore in less than 10 feet of water. With the super clear water it feels like swimming in an oversized aquarium. The corals have also suffered here, but we see large schools of Blue Tang and Black Durgon, and even a shark, barracudas, turtles, a huge Green Moray Eel and a stingray in his natural habitat.

We also snorkel the famous wreck of the USS Kittiwake, a 251-foot former submarine rescue ship. This spectacular wreck lies at a maximum depth of 40 to 65 feet. Again, the crystal clear water allows you to see all the details despite the depth. Hans uses our small scuba system, but the 30 foot hose doesn’t allow him to go all the way down. Still a great experience!


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