Visitors to Medellin cannot avoid the story of Pablo Escobar, who almost destroyed the city, killing thousands of people and tarnishing the reputation of an entire country. Many Colombians still live with painful memories of the bombs and bloodshed he left behind.

We had read up a bit on Colombia’s violent history and were curious to see what Comuna 13, once the epicenter of cartel violence, would look like. we take the metro from El Poblado to San Javier and then walk 20 minutes to Comuna 13.

Comuna 13 was once a poor neighborhood of people who fled the violence and created informal settlements on the hills on the outskirts of Medellin that was largely ignored by the city’s authorities for a long time, so there was no police presence there. At the same time, its location on the western hills of Medellin leading towards the San Juan Highway made it a very convenient route to use for trafficking guns, weapons, and cash.

A ride in one of the gondolas over some of the informal settlements (we don’t know if or how they are regulated today) gives us an idea of what the neighborhood used to look like, but also serves as a stark reminder of the inequality that still exists in this city and country today.

Medellin was the home of Pablo Escobar, the world’s most notorious drug lord, and in the 1970s, Comuna 13 fell under the control of his cartel. Many innocent people in the area were caught up in, or killed due to, their criminal activities. In fact, by the late 80s, Comuna 13 had become known as one of the most dangerous places in the world.

Sick and tired of the constant violence in Comuna 13, residents began to push back in a peaceful way. The community came together and young people in particular began to reject the gangs in favor of art, dance, and music. They started using graffiti to cover the damaged buildings and reclaim their streets, while expressing themselves through dance and music. Although this didn’t stop the gangs, it made it more difficult for them to find new recruits, and the city of Medellin began to take notice of the positive changes in Comuna 13.

The government began to invest in new infrastructure. Previously, the hillside district was isolated from many parts of Medellin, but they created a metro train and gondola line which connected Comuna 13 to the rest of the city. A few years later, they also added the now-famous escalators so that people didn’t need to climb up and down hundreds of steps just to access the cable car.

This improved access to the city opened up new job opportunities for residents, which further helped to reduce the cartels’ influence over the area. These investments, coupled with community initiatives to better the comuna, helped to transform Comuna 13 into the lively, vibrant, and safe neighborhood that it is today. It’s a true testament to the optimism and determination of the residents of Comuna 13 and we’re enjoying our time here quite a bit despite the many tourists .


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