After about two weeks we leave the laid back Isla de Guanaja and enjoy a beautiful 22 nm long downwind sail to the next island, Roatán, where we drop the anchor in front of the sleepy little town of Santa Elena.

Roatán, the biggest and most developed of the Bay Islands, draws in travelers with its mountainous inner region and miles of sandy white beaches on its shores. The east end is still pretty chill and mostly untouched by tourism, but the area around French Cay and even more so the West End are bustling with tourists who come in by plane, ferry, or the large cruise ships. No surprise there. After all, the Mesoamerican Reef, the second largest coral reef in the world, is located in the Bay Islands, stretching 700 miles all the way from the Yucatan Peninsula.

We love the quiet anchorages of Santa Elena and Port Royal, where we have the entire bay to ourselves. The water is gorgeous, and perfect for taking an early morning or late night swim with no one else around.

We then continue on along the coast first to French Cay Harbor and then to lively West End, where the streets are filled with tourists visiting the many restaurants, bars, and souvenir shops. Lanchas are zooming back and forth, bringing the cruise ship passangers to the resorts of French Cay and to various other attractions. The anchorage of West End is protected by a big reef, and there are only three narrow, shallow entrances indicated by two white markers. While it looks like there’s plenty of space, the adrenaline level is slightly elevated when you approach the markers and see the reefs on either side of the them. The approach is definitely best attempted by good light and calm conditions.

Besides tourism, fishing is the main source of income for the islands. Some of the boats go out for up to 8 months at a time! Supply boats go out to bring them fresh provisions and then return with the catch.

On August 1st, we’re heading out of West End in Roatán. With winds between 8 and 10 knots and calm water, we deploy the spinnaker and sail the 23 nautical miles to Utila on a comfortable broad reach.

The rain and thunderstorms that were in the forecast didn’t materialize, so we got to enjoy a beautiful sail with a gorgeous view of the mountains on the mainland.

After 23 nautical miles, we drop anchor in the big bay of Utila. Like Roatán, diving tourists are the main source of income for this island, but unlike Roatán, most travelers coming to Utila are more budget-conscious. There are tons of scuba shops along the streets, and the harbor is filled with snorkeling and diving boats waiting for customers. The water is crystal clear, and every time we go snorkeling, we’re amazed by the healthy corals and the large variety and number of fish.

There is not a not much else to do on Utila, but of we tick off the few things that are there – the Iguana Research and Breeding Station, the Chocolate Shop, the Rum Factory, the main beach and the old lighthouse. This lighthouse was still in use until a few years ago but has since been abandoned. Of course we climb up and are rewarded with a great 360 view of the island.

We’ve been craving a good steak for a while and enjoy a yummy meal at the Argentinian steak house “Che Pancho”.

During our walks we often stumble upon fascinating wild- and plantlife and cute as well as peculiar little items catch our eye. We also see our first starfruit tree!

Artistic sculpture made from recycled materials depicting a mythical creature, found in the vibrant streets of Roatan.

We have a wonderful and leisurely time in the Bay Islands. This is a place we could definitely see ourselves going back to some day.


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