The next morning, we left Valladolid and drove toward Mérida. On the way, we stopped in Izamal, also known as the Yellow City. This charming colonial town is famous for its yellow buildings. It’s also one of Mexico’s Pueblos Mágicos and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The main attraction is the Convento de San Antonio de Padua, located in the center of town, which visitors can explore for free.

It takes another hour to reach the Mercado de Santiago in Mérida for lunch. Besides the typical stands selling fruit, vegetables, and meat, there are several food stalls frequented by locals. We heard that the most popular is Taqueria La Lupita, a simple place with outstanding food. It’s full of locals, which is always a good sign. La Lupita is known for its lechón, a whole pig roasted on a spit over charcoal and flavored with oil and spices. And it is absolutely delicious! The big sandwiches fill us up and only cost $8.50 for the two of us.

Before exploring Mérida, we take a break at our hotel. First, we dip into the pool, and then we take a little nap. It’s way too hot to walk around town.

In the late afternoon, we stroll from our hotel to the Plaza Grande, Mérida’s main square and the heart of the city. It’s a great place to hang out and people-watch. There’s plenty of seating, including the Sillas Tú y Yo chairs. They are very popular in Yucatán and can be seen all over Mérida.

We start checking off the main attractions of the downtown area. Among them is the Catedral de San Ildefonso, the oldest cathedral in Mexico. It was built in the 16th century on the site of a Mayan temple.

Then there is the Casa de Montejo, a building dating back to 1542 that was once the residence of Francisco de Montejo and his family. Francisco de Montejo was the founder of Mérida. Only the façade is original; the rest was renovated at the beginning of the 20th century. In 1978, the building was sold to the National Bank of Mexico, which turned it into offices. There is a small museum dedicated to the Montejo family that features original furnishings and art exhibits.

Another attraction is the Palacio de Gobierno, which houses the offices of the state government. Once you pass the guards, you enter a large courtyard adorned with beautiful murals and paintings that depict the history of Yucatán. When you go upstairs, you can also enjoy a great view of Plaza Grande.

Then there is the Municipal Palace, the pink, Spanish-style City Hall of Mérida. Unfortunately, the second floor is closed that day, so we cannot enjoy the supposedly great view of Plaza Grande and the cathedral.

While we are hanging out in the square, soaking up the evening atmosphere, we learn that an event is taking place at a park about a 30-minute walk away. The Noche Mexicana is an open-air event featuring artists in vibrant costumes performing a blend of traditional Mexican folkloric dances and live music. Quite enjoyable!

On Sunday morning, we walk along Paseo de Montejo, a wide, tree-lined avenue named after Mérida’s founder. It is home to some of the city’s most beautiful buildings. These gorgeous mansions were once the homes of wealthy Yucatecans who prospered from the henequen trade. Many of them traveled to Paris, where they were heavily influenced by French architecture, as evidenced by the homes they built. That’s why the Paseo de Montejo is often referred to as the Champs-Élysées of Mérida. Today, some of those lavish mansions house museums and hotels, while others are home to various businesses. Several remain abandoned. A walk along Paseo de Montejo is simply not to be missed.

Being there on a Sunday is a special treat. Since 2006, one lane of Paseo de Montejo has been closed to car traffic every Sunday from 8:00 AM to 12:00 PM for “La Biciruta,” a popular biking event in Mérida. It was fun to see locals (and some tourists) renting bikes from one of the many rental shops and enjoying the avenue.

At the end of Paseo de Montejo stands the impressive Monumento a la Patria, created by Colombian sculptor Rómulo Rozo. It sits in the center of a busy roundabout and pays homage to Mexico’s history. The monument features 300 carvings that depict Mexico’s history from the establishment of Tenochtitlán to the 20th century.

We end our stay in Mérida with one last visit to Pola Gelato, an ice cream parlor that we had discovered the day before. They have some very interesting flavors on their menu. Our favorite by far is the blue cheese apple compote ice cream—actually the reason we go back a second time.

During our brief visit to the Yucatán Peninsula, we tried some of the region’s most famous dishes, such as cochinita pibil, slow-roasted pork marinated in orange juice and achiote and wrapped in banana leaves before being cooked underground. Another must-try in Valladolid is longaniza de Valladolid, a locally made sausage. Everything we bought from street food vendors was delicious. Mexico’s culinary reputation did not disappoint!

It takes about four hours to get back to Playa del Carmen, where we go to a supermarket to buy beverages and heavy, nonperishable food while we still have the car. Once we return from our visit to the US, we will stock up on produce and refrigerated items for the next leg of our journey.


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