Colombia has a fairly well developed bus system and many tickets can be purchased online. We buy two tickets for $10 each for the 3-hour trip from Medellin to Jardin. The bus is really comfortable and offers a lot of legroom, unlike economy class on an airplane.

The drive takes us on windy roads through the Andes mountains offering spectacular views up the mountains and into the valleys. Halfway to our destination the bus stops, allowing passengers to stretch their legs, use the restroom or buy something to eat.

Jardin is beautifully nestled in the mountains, surrounded by the greenery of banana and coffee plantations. The town is quiet and rustic, and the plaza in the center is absolutely idyllic. In the evenings there are many street food vendors, a perfect opportunity to sample more of the Colombian delicacies. The restaurants and bars around the plaza set out colorful tables and chairs to create a cheerful atmosphere.

The first building that catches the eye is the Basilica Menor de la Inmaculada Concepción. An imposing neo-Gothic structure, the church towers over the rest of the city and has an ornate and colorful interior of marble and turquoise tiles.

We walk to the Reserva Natural Jardin de Rocas, a beautiful retreat on the edge of town and next to the river. The owners have transformed what was once a pasture into a garden full of flowers that attract butterflies and birds, especially the gallito de rocas, also known as the tangerine-breasted Andean cock-of-the-rock. We watch this strange but beautiful Andean bird, as well as some other smaller and beautifully colored birds dancing around the flowers and fruit left out for them to eat.

Another attraction in Jardin is the Garrucha, an old yellow gondola built to transport people and supplies over the difficult terrain south of town. It is a beautiful 3 km hike that takes us through coffee plantations where the crop is mixed with banana and corn plants. When we get to the gondola we find out that it is not running at the moment. What a pity! Although, considering the condition of the gondola, who knows if we would have made it back to town in one piece. The view from the terrace is stunning though. We continue the walk back to Jardin and reward ourselves with the famous arroz con leche (rice pudding) at the renowned ‘Dulces del Jardin’, right on the plaza.


On September 22nd we leave our hostel bright and early because the bus is supposed to leave at 6:25 a.m. . We had already found out where the bus was leaving from two days before and also bought our tickets right away. We arrive just before 6:00 a.m. to have enough time for breakfast.

The first leg of the journey takes about five and a half hours and takes us to Manizales. There we enter the huge bus terminal and are greeted by a large number of different agencies offering, among other places,buses to Pereira, our next destination. Price lists are displayed in the windows to avoid any unpleasant surprises and make it easy to compare prices. After buying the tickets, we go to the back of the terminal where a lot of shuttle buses are waiting to leave. Our ticket shows the registration of our bus and an attendant points us in the right direction.


Bus from Pereira to Salento

After about an hour we arrive in Pereira and once again look for the right booth to buy our ticket for the last leg of our journey. Another hour from Pereira to Salento. By now we have completely figured out the Colombian bus system and should really explore another corner of this country. And we could also add to our collection of Colombian animal crossing signs!

Salento is a Colombian municipality located in the department of Quindío, in the region of Eje Cafetero. Surrounded by the mountains of the Cordillera Central de los Andes, it is a small town known for its beauty and rural culture. A street lined with souvenir shops is evidence that the small town of Salento is a bit more touristy than Jardin. In addition to the coffee plantations, the town is well known for the Cocora Valley, located 20 kilometers from the town of Salento, a nature reserve that marks the entrance to the Los Nevados National Natural Park.

During our time in Salento we have plenty of time to discover this small town. We enjoy the best views of Salento and the surrounding green mountains by walking up a steep staircase that takes us to the Mirador de Salento.

Plaza de Bolivar, the lively square in the center of town, is surrounded by the church and many cafes and restaurants. On the day of our arrival there is a small celebration in town. We dont find out what it is about, but we still enjoy the costumes and the festivities.

No trip to Salento would be complete without a visit to one of the coffee plantations. We choose to go to Don Elias, a small, organic and family-run finca, it is about a 5 km hike to the plantation and as we are the only visitors we get a very, very personal tour. Camilo explains the coffee production process, from growing the seedlings, taking care of the plants and harvesting, to drying, roasting and grinding the coffee beans. Of course, the tour ends with a freshly brewed, delicious cup of Colombian coffee.

One of the highlights of the area is the Los Nevados National Park, especially the Cocora Valley, known worldwide as the home of the Quindió wax palm, the tallest species in the world.

For a mere $1, we take a “Willy”, one of the many quirky jeeps that wait in the plaza to take visitors to the entrance of the park.

Since it hasn’t rained much in the last few days, the trails are pretty dry and we don’t need to rent rubber boots. A spectacular trail takes us through farmland, along a river with several questionable bridges, into the jungle, and finally into the Cocora Valley with its giant palm trees.

We have already bought our tickets for the bus from Salento back to Medellin on the Busbud app for 40 US dollars. The bus leaves on time and we arrive in Medellin on time, only to be stuck in a huge traffic jam caused by flooding. Worried that we might not make our flight, we ask the bus driver if we can get off at the next metro station. No problema” is his answer. So we take the metro and a shuttle bus, and an hour later we are at the airport with plenty of time to spare. And we are off back to Cartagena!

Back in Cartagena


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