Sailing MAKAAN

Traveling to the Horizon and Beyond

Category: September 2025

  • A First Taste of Lima (9/25/2025)

    We’ve got two days in Lima, and we’re going to spend the first one checking out all the landmarks in the downtown area. To get to the Centro Historico, we take Bus Line C from Estacion Ricardo Palma to Jiron de la Union.

    First, we walk to Plaza Mayor de Lima, also called Plaza de Armas, as so many other plazas in Peru are called. Pizarro, a Spanish conquistador who led the conquest of the Inca Empire, set up this 140-square-meter square as the center of the continent. The Spanish executed their opponents in the square, and in 1821, they declared independence from Spain right there. The square is surrounded by impressive architecture. The east side of the square is home to the Catedral de Lima, which was founded by Pizarro in 1535. It’s been rebuilt many times since then, and it’s got twin towers and the Archbishop’s Palace of Lima (Palacio Arzobispal de Lima) connected to it.

    Pizarro’s Tomb
    The skulls are from notable yet unknown individuals who paid a lot of money for the privilege to be buried in the cathedral.
    Palacio Arzobispal de Lima
    Palacio Municipal
    Convento de San Francisco de Lima

    Then, we’ll head to Desamparados Station, a gorgeous old train station that’s now abandoned. It was built in 1912 and was the centerpiece of the continent’s first railway line. Now it’s home to the Casa de Literature Peruana, with a little library and art gallery.

    Parque La Muralla is located behind the station. This park has views of a vibrant neighborhood built on a hill across the river.

    Now it’s time for lunch with a nice view of the Gran Bolivar Hotel on Plaza San Martin. Back in the 1940s and 1950s, this spot was a favorite of Hollywood movie stars like Orson Welles, Ava Gardner, and John Wayne.

    We spend the afternoon walking from Parque San Martín to the Park of the Exhibition, enjoying all the beautiful colonial buildings on the way.

    The Parque de la Exposición has a bunch of buildings that were built for the 1872 International Exhibition in Lima. Some of the highlights include the Byzantine Pavilion, Moorish Pavilion, Fuente China (Chinese Fountain), and Japanese Garden. Today, the Parque de la Exposición is a popular urban recreational and cultural space in Peru’s busy capital. It’s home to two major museums: the Museo de Arte de Lima (MALI) (in the converted Palacio de la Exposición) and the Museo Metropolitano de Lima. The park seems to be the go-to place for local couples to snuggle, and the fence around most of the park means that it’s a quiet oasis free of crowds.

    Then, we’ll walk a bit more south to the last stop in the area, which is the Magic Water Circuit (Circuito Mágico del Agua) in another big park. This is thought to be the biggest collection of water fountains on the planet. It’s too bad we’re there during the day because the real magic happens at night.

    We take the express bus back from Estacion Nacional to Ricardo Palma, and it is just a five-minute walk to our hotel. On the way, we cross Parque Kennedy, where there was a big flower exposition that week.

    We wrap things up with a taste of the famous picarones from Picarones Mary, which was featured on the Netflix documentary Street Food: Latin America. Picarones are a traditional Peruvian dessert, similar to a doughnut, made from a dough of pumpkin, sweet potato, and wheat flour, which is then fried into a ring shape and served hot with a sweet syrup made from chancaca (unrefined cane sugar). Yum!


  • Let’s Go On A Vacation

    The yard workers have finished the prep work on MAKAAN. The bottom has been sanded and primed, the topsides have been filled with epoxy where needed and the entire side area was sanded smooth.

    Next, they’ll put MAKAAN in the painting booth where they can apply the Awlgrip paint for the topsides and the Coppercoat for the bottom in a dry and somewhat dust-free environment. That also means we can’t stay on the boat during that time. So we decide to go on a trip.

    Where are we going? We’re heading to Peru and we’re pretty excited about it! We’re taking a two-week trip from Lima to Arequipa, Lake Titicaca, Cusco, Machu Picchu, and then back to Lima.

    Our friends Peter and Renate treat us to a nice breakfast to help us last through the six and a half hour trip to Guatemala City.

    Our trip is delayed by an hour and a half, which gives us time to chat with a couple who fills us in on the meaning of the Guatemalan flag, state flower, and state tree. The national flower is the White Nun Orchid, also known as La Monja Blanca. It represents peace, purity, and the nation’s abundant resources. The national tree of Guatemala is the ceiba tree, and it’s a sacred symbol for the ancient Maya. They saw it as the Tree of Life and the axis mundi that connects the three realms of the universe. The two sky blue stripes on the Guatemalan flag stand for the two oceans that Guatemala is between: the Pacific Ocean and the Caribbean Sea. There’s a scroll on the white part that shows the date Guatemala gained independence from Spain, and it also has a picture of the Resplendent Quetzal, Guatemala’s national bird and a Mayan symbol of freedom (the photos are from the internet).

    When we’re finally on our way to Guatemala City, where we’ll spend the night and catch a plane the next morning, we once again drive through one of those beautifully lush Central American countries where the roads are flanked by farms, jungle, and, in the distance, vegetation-covered mountains, intermittently only interrupted by some settlements, small towns, and the occasional river.

    The next morning, we hop on a plane to Lima, Peru via Panama City, Panama.

    When we finally get to Lima we grab the Airport Express Bus, which costs $4 per person and takes us on a one-hour drive through Lima to Parque Kennedy. It is another 15 minutes on foot from there to the Harmony Inn, where we will spend the next three nights.


  • Life On The Hard

    On Monday, August 11, MAKAAN is taken out of the water and will spend the next couple of months on the hard at RAM Marina. Our boat is 43 years old, and it’s showing its age a little bit. The last three years were tough. The salt water and high temperatures took a toll on her, so it’s time to give her some tender loving care.

    We’ve got a long list of repairs and maintenance to do:

    – Spray paint the refrigerator water cooling pump
    – Replace the manifold seal on the diesel engine
    – Replace the charger outlet in the cockpit, which has just disintegrated due to heat and sun exposure
    – Replace the Racor diesel filters
    – Maintain our through hulls
    – Remove the rust from the propane tanks and paint them
    – Clean the bilge
    – Try to paint the dorade vents (which we replaced three years ago but their surface disintegrated as well and turned into a sticky mess
    – Paint the dodger roof
    – Fix the anti-skid surface on the deck where some gasoline spilled
    – Change the dry rotted hose for the shower drain
    – Change the oil in the generator

    We let the yard take care of two big items: the antifouling (which is a special paint that protects the boat’s surface from barnacles and other marine life) and the topsides (the part of the boat above the waterline). The paint on the sides has a lot of cracks and left untreated water can eventually seep into the substrate. Painting the sides of the boat with Awlgrip paint is too big and difficult of a project for us to tackle, at least if we want a good-looking result.

    For the bottom, we chose to use Coppercoat instead of an ablative antifouling, which we used in the past. We weren’t happy with the product we put on in Trinidad. At first, it worked really well. But after about a year, the times between cleaning the bottom got shorter and shorter, and the growth got more and more. After hauling out, we once again found some little blisters. These blisters could be a sign of osmosis. Osmosis is the process where water penetrates the gelcoat and fiberglass hull. This creates internal pressure and moisture and can lead to delamination and blistering of the hull’s layers which in turn can compromise its structural integrity and seaworthiness. This time, we decided to sandblast the bottom which will reveal every tiny blister as a little hole. The workers will fill all the holes with epoxy and then apply four coats of barrier coat and six coats of copper coat. Coppercoat is a different type of antifouling paint because it is an epoxy with a lot of suspended copper particles. After the paint dries, sanding the surface activates / exposes the copper and prevents most marine growth for up to ten years. That’s what the manufacturer says. If that’s true, and most reviews are positive, we should recover our investment after six years compared to the multiple haulouts and applications of traditional antifouling paint required over that 10 year period.

    When the workers start the job, we realize that it was a good decision to give these two projects to the yard because we would not have lasted long in these very hot and humid conditions. These poor guys are in hazmat suits and respirators all day. We can only offer them cold drinks to help them cool off. We also would never have been as aggressive as they are. We would have used a Dremel to carefully grind out the damaged areas, but they use a hammer and a chisel instead. The noise inside the boat is scary. They grind down to the fiberglass and fill the voids with epoxy. Then, they sand off the epoxy and the old paint, and they make so much dust that we need to close all the hatches. It’s getting so hot inside the boat that we’re taking refuge in the “cooling room” in the office building.

    While the workers work on their projects, we work our way through our to-do list. On most days, we get up around 5 a.m., grab a cup of coffee, and then start working while the temperatures are still manageable. After about 10 a.m., working outside is pretty unbearable, and the deck is so hot that it burns our feet. So we try to get some work done inside the boat with all of our little fans working overtime. Then, after about 4 pm, we can get a few more hours of work in before the sun sets at around 6:30. Some days we take a shower three times a day because we’re sweating like crazy.

    Do not fool yourself into thinking that it will remain the original to-do list. Sometimes, things go wrong or projects turn out to be more complicated than we expected. For example, when we just want to transport the dinghy to the water, we realize that the rubber on the wheels has disintegrated. So that means we’ll be running around the town of Rio Dulce trying to find a replacement. Another example is the dodger project, which we started a while ago when we noticed moisture coming in and the roof starting to delaminate. At that time, Hans drilled holes in the roof, let it dry out, and then filled the holes with epoxy. When he starts sanding the roof to get it ready for painting, we notice that more moisture has gotten in. Brown liquid is seeping out on the left edge. Instead of a quick sanding and painting project, it turns into a big grinding and epoxy project.

    Hans is also using epoxy to extend the front of the doger so that rainwater doesn’t keep dripping into the cockpit anymore.

    Another project we add to the list is painting the areas of the deck that are not covered by Kiwi Grip, the paint we used to repaint the nonskid areas of the deck. It’s time to work on the other area that was previously painted with Awlgrip, but it has many cracks and is peeling in places. We decided to do this ourselves to save some money. The project begins with a lot of sanding. Since we’re so sweaty, it’s good that sandpaper can be used dry or wet. We then need to prime the areas twice with sanding in between. The project is progressing slowly due to several factors. First, the morning dew is affecting the project. The temperature is fine, but the deck is too wet. Second, the heat is an issue. The primer cannot be applied on surfaces over 105 degrees Fahrenheit. Third, there’s a lot of dust from all the other projects happening around us, and we don’t want that in the paint. And, of course, you can’t forget about the rain either.

    If all devices must be removed anyway, one might as well relocate the VHF and radar.

    Since we’re already using Awlgrip, we decided to repaint the shower pan and the area behind the toilet too. This is another unexpected project that will take a lot of time, but at least it’s not dependent on the weather.

    The bilge cleaning project is a never-ending story. It turns out that the bilge pump switch was broken, so one of the pumps never worked right. While we’re cleaning, we also find cracks in the bottom of the bilge. It looks like someone’s already worked on that before, and added a lot of filler. We’re not sure what kind of filler it is, but it’s cracking and pulling apart from the sides, so it’s gotta come out. Hans can start a career as a contortionist soon, the way he tries to squeeze his body into the bilge to reach the bottom. The plan is to get rid of the old filler in the bilge, rough up the surface, and then use epoxy to smooth it out and work as a barrier coat. After that, we’ll apply Awlgrip primer and top coat, the same stuff we use on the sides of the boat and the deck.

    Honestly, the boat is looking more and more messy every day.

    And don’t forget that even in the midst of all this chaos, you’ve still got to find time to do laundry, cook, and go grocery shopping.

    But it’s not all just sweat and tears. There’s a pretty big cruiser community, and there are several marinas close by., so events take place pretty much every day. There’s this one lady, JoAnn, who’s organizing a bunch of events to support local businesses. The week kicks off with Margarita Monday, which always happens at a different restaurant. They’ve got a few special items on offer, along with a sweet deal on margaritas.

    Every Tuesday they set up a trip to a nearby attraction. Wednesday is Spa-Day. There’s a room at the neighboring Nanajuana Marina where the windows have been covered with paper, nothing special, but the massages given by the two ladies are simply magical. I’m okay with the lack of ambience since the price is right at $30 for an hour. In fact, I even persuaded Hans to get a massage there.

    On Thursday around noon, anyone with an instrument is welcome to meet at Sundog Cafe for a jam session. In the evening, there’s movie night at Mar Marine, another marina. And on Friday nights, there’s a communal BBQ at La Rampa Bar and Restaurant in Nanajuana. Everyone brings something to grill and a dish to share. There’s no doubt about it — you can have a good work-life balance!