Sailing MAKAAN

Traveling to the Horizon and Beyond

Category: 2025

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  • A First Taste of Lima (9/25/2025)

    We’ve got two days in Lima, and we’re going to spend the first one checking out all the landmarks in the downtown area. To get to the Centro Historico, we take Bus Line C from Estacion Ricardo Palma to Jiron de la Union.

    First, we walk to Plaza Mayor de Lima, also called Plaza de Armas, as so many other plazas in Peru are called. Pizarro, a Spanish conquistador who led the conquest of the Inca Empire, set up this 140-square-meter square as the center of the continent. The Spanish executed their opponents in the square, and in 1821, they declared independence from Spain right there. The square is surrounded by impressive architecture. The east side of the square is home to the Catedral de Lima, which was founded by Pizarro in 1535. It’s been rebuilt many times since then, and it’s got twin towers and the Archbishop’s Palace of Lima (Palacio Arzobispal de Lima) connected to it.

    Pizarro’s Tomb
    The skulls are from notable yet unknown individuals who paid a lot of money for the privilege to be buried in the cathedral.
    Palacio Arzobispal de Lima
    Palacio Municipal
    Convento de San Francisco de Lima

    Then, we’ll head to Desamparados Station, a gorgeous old train station that’s now abandoned. It was built in 1912 and was the centerpiece of the continent’s first railway line. Now it’s home to the Casa de Literature Peruana, with a little library and art gallery.

    Parque La Muralla is located behind the station. This park has views of a vibrant neighborhood built on a hill across the river.

    Now it’s time for lunch with a nice view of the Gran Bolivar Hotel on Plaza San Martin. Back in the 1940s and 1950s, this spot was a favorite of Hollywood movie stars like Orson Welles, Ava Gardner, and John Wayne.

    We spend the afternoon walking from Parque San Martín to the Park of the Exhibition, enjoying all the beautiful colonial buildings on the way.

    The Parque de la Exposición has a bunch of buildings that were built for the 1872 International Exhibition in Lima. Some of the highlights include the Byzantine Pavilion, Moorish Pavilion, Fuente China (Chinese Fountain), and Japanese Garden. Today, the Parque de la Exposición is a popular urban recreational and cultural space in Peru’s busy capital. It’s home to two major museums: the Museo de Arte de Lima (MALI) (in the converted Palacio de la Exposición) and the Museo Metropolitano de Lima. The park seems to be the go-to place for local couples to snuggle, and the fence around most of the park means that it’s a quiet oasis free of crowds.

    Then, we’ll walk a bit more south to the last stop in the area, which is the Magic Water Circuit (Circuito Mágico del Agua) in another big park. This is thought to be the biggest collection of water fountains on the planet. It’s too bad we’re there during the day because the real magic happens at night.

    We take the express bus back from Estacion Nacional to Ricardo Palma, and it is just a five-minute walk to our hotel. On the way, we cross Parque Kennedy, where there was a big flower exposition that week.

    We wrap things up with a taste of the famous picarones from Picarones Mary, which was featured on the Netflix documentary Street Food: Latin America. Picarones are a traditional Peruvian dessert, similar to a doughnut, made from a dough of pumpkin, sweet potato, and wheat flour, which is then fried into a ring shape and served hot with a sweet syrup made from chancaca (unrefined cane sugar). Yum!


  • Let’s Go On A Vacation

    The yard workers have finished the prep work on MAKAAN. The bottom has been sanded and primed, the topsides have been filled with epoxy where needed and the entire side area was sanded smooth.

    Next, they’ll put MAKAAN in the painting booth where they can apply the Awlgrip paint for the topsides and the Coppercoat for the bottom in a dry and somewhat dust-free environment. That also means we can’t stay on the boat during that time. So we decide to go on a trip.

    Where are we going? We’re heading to Peru and we’re pretty excited about it! We’re taking a two-week trip from Lima to Arequipa, Lake Titicaca, Cusco, Machu Picchu, and then back to Lima.

    Our friends Peter and Renate treat us to a nice breakfast to help us last through the six and a half hour trip to Guatemala City.

    Our trip is delayed by an hour and a half, which gives us time to chat with a couple who fills us in on the meaning of the Guatemalan flag, state flower, and state tree. The national flower is the White Nun Orchid, also known as La Monja Blanca. It represents peace, purity, and the nation’s abundant resources. The national tree of Guatemala is the ceiba tree, and it’s a sacred symbol for the ancient Maya. They saw it as the Tree of Life and the axis mundi that connects the three realms of the universe. The two sky blue stripes on the Guatemalan flag stand for the two oceans that Guatemala is between: the Pacific Ocean and the Caribbean Sea. There’s a scroll on the white part that shows the date Guatemala gained independence from Spain, and it also has a picture of the Resplendent Quetzal, Guatemala’s national bird and a Mayan symbol of freedom (the photos are from the internet).

    When we’re finally on our way to Guatemala City, where we’ll spend the night and catch a plane the next morning, we once again drive through one of those beautifully lush Central American countries where the roads are flanked by farms, jungle, and, in the distance, vegetation-covered mountains, intermittently only interrupted by some settlements, small towns, and the occasional river.

    The next morning, we hop on a plane to Lima, Peru via Panama City, Panama.

    When we finally get to Lima we grab the Airport Express Bus, which costs $4 per person and takes us on a one-hour drive through Lima to Parque Kennedy. It is another 15 minutes on foot from there to the Harmony Inn, where we will spend the next three nights.


  • Making Landfall in the Bay Islands

    After filling up our diesel tank, we’re excited to leave Puerto Aventuras on June 29 and head to the beautiful Bay Islands of Honduras. We’re still working on getting the Monitor windvane to work just right, but so far, after about 20 miles, we’re pretty happy with how it’s doing. MAKAAN holds the course perfectly! We see lightning in the distance and put the first reef into our main in preparation for the expected squall that arrives a little later with gusts up to 32 knots.

    Once again, we’re going against the current, and our average speed is only 3.7 knots. Sometimes we only make 2 knots, even when the wind is up to 20 knots. It’s pretty frustrating. When we’re about halfway through our passage, it looks like we’re past the worst of the current. Now, the waves are a bit of an issue. They’re coming in very short intervals, which makes it a bit tricky to move around the boat.

    This map shows the predicted currents for our route. Grey is about 3 knots, blue is about 2 knots, red is about 1.5 knots, yellow is about 1 knot, and green is half a knot.

    In the afternoon of July 2 it is clear that we won’t make it to our destination during daytime. We now have three options: slow down so we get there in the morning, continue at the current speed and then heave-two (a maneuver where a boat is made to stop moving forward and remain nearly stationary, with the sails arranged to create a balanced state of opposing forces) and enter the anchorage in the morning or continue at the current speed and enter the anchorage at night. Although we normally avoid entering an unknown anchorage at night, we decide to try it. With a three quarter moon we should have decent visibility and see any obstacles. It is still a bit nerve wrecking to make our way through the reef and around all the areas within dotted lines where depth indications on Navionics might not be accurate. But all goes well and at 22:11, after 2 1/2 days and 306 nautical miles, we are safely swinging on the hook. Here are some stats of our trip: 0 dolphin sightings, 0 fish caught, 1 squall, and 5 five container boats. We asked one of them to change course, since our AIS showed the closest point of approach at 0.1 nautical miles. This was a bit too close for comfort, and due to the wind conditions, it would have been hard for us to change course and increase our distance.

    The next morning, we’ll keep going through the reefs to El Bight, a protected bay with gorgeous views and a few good spots to grab a drink and relax.

    The Bay Islands of Honduras have a rich history, and it’s closely tied to piracy. During the 17th century, up to 5,000 pirates lived on the island of Roatán. It was in a great spot along Spanish treasure routes and natural harbors, so it was a popular hideout for pirates. They liked to use it as a refuge, and it was a good place to get supplies. Plus, it was a great location to attack ships that passed by. Roatán has seen its fair share of famous pirates over the years, like Blackbeard, Van Horn, and Henry Morgan.

    As always, when we get to a new country, the first thing we need to do is immigration. There are a bunch of apps and websites that give us info about where to find immigration and port captain offices, what documents we need, how much it costs, and if there is a number to call. The info isn’t always 100% accurate, but it’s a solid starting point. We find out that Denilson is the immigration officer, so we call him via Starlink and make an appointment. When we get to his office, it’s closed and he’s not there. We didn’t get an eSIM for Honduras, so once we’re off the boat, we cannot make phone calls, but a nice lady lets us use her phone. Denilson asked us to come back the next day at 10 am. We’re at the office on time, but the place is empty. We’re out in the blazing sun waiting for about an hour when he finally shows up. The immigration office looks pretty run-down from outside. The door had definitely seen better days, too. Before entering, Denilson warns us not to step on the first floor board, as we might break through.

    We’re ready to start the immigration process, which ends up taking about three hours. It’s not so much because of how challenging the process is, but more because Denilson shares the island’s and his life story with us.

    We learn that in 1998 Hurricane Mitch sat on Guanaja and battered the island for two days of winds exceeding 125 mph, destroying nearly all of the plants and trees on Guanaja and uprooting almost the entire mangrove forest. It is estimated that the hurricane produced waves of 44 ft (13 m) in height. Thank goodness, most of the island’s residents survived, but about 75 percent of all structures were destroyed. Bonacco Town, built entirely on stilts over the water, was almost gone.

    Most of the Guanaja’s 6,000 residents live in Bonacca. There’s a small medical facility, a school, several churches, one larger supermarket, and lots of small tiendas, bars, and restaurants.

    Back in October 2021, a fire broke out around daybreak and spread quickly through the wooden structures of the homes and businesses that were built closely together. Ultimately, over 200 structures were destroyed or damaged, and more than 400 people were displaced, including Denilson. He had a tough time getting back on his feet in the years that followed, but he hit the jackpot last year when he became a Limpira millionaire (about $38,000). Now he’s building a new home for himself and his family. It’s wild to hear how everyone pitched in to fight the fire and to learn about the difficulties that arose, like downed live electrical lines lying in the water, which put the lives of the helpers in jeopardy.

    Denilson’s new house

    After we check in, we’re taking a walk around Bonacca when a nice guy starts chatting with us. He’d broken his leg about a week ago and was sitting in a chair in front of a building to stay connected with the world. He suggests we go to Over the Top, a bar/disco. We meet the owner and he gives us a tour of the bar and the rooftop, where we get a great view of the island. Back inside, Hans tries Honduran beer for the first time. And the winner is… Salvavida

    In Guanaja, transportation is pretty much limited to boats. Supply boats bring fresh produce to the island on Wednesdays, so make sure you get what you need. If you come two days later, the selection is already pretty sad. There’s always a steady flow of lanchas and water taxis going back and forth between various spots around the main island and between Guanaja and Bonacca.

    It’s pretty clear from the “streets” of Bonacca why even mopeds are a bad idea for the island. In a tiny village right across from Bonacca, we also only spot a few fourwheelers. People need them to bring supplies up the incredibly steep roads. Only in the easternmost town, Savanah, the streets are jam-packed with mopeds and tuktuks.

    We also meet Hans in Guanaja. He’s German, and he moved there in 1978. He bought a piece of land where he grows his own vegetables and raises some cattle and opened a beach bar and restaurant. After Hurricane Mitch hit, he got together a relief effort for the island in Germany. A couple of containers with some much-needed generators, tools, and building materials were shipped to Honduras. It’s no surprise he’s a well-known and respected figure all over the island.

  • Review 3: Getting a Taste of the Yucatan Peninsula – Day 3 and 4

    The next morning, we left Valladolid and drove toward Mérida. On the way, we stopped in Izamal, also known as the Yellow City. This charming colonial town is famous for its yellow buildings. It’s also one of Mexico’s Pueblos Mágicos and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The main attraction is the Convento de San Antonio de Padua, located in the center of town, which visitors can explore for free.

    It takes another hour to reach the Mercado de Santiago in Mérida for lunch. Besides the typical stands selling fruit, vegetables, and meat, there are several food stalls frequented by locals. We heard that the most popular is Taqueria La Lupita, a simple place with outstanding food. It’s full of locals, which is always a good sign. La Lupita is known for its lechón, a whole pig roasted on a spit over charcoal and flavored with oil and spices. And it is absolutely delicious! The big sandwiches fill us up and only cost $8.50 for the two of us.

    Before exploring Mérida, we take a break at our hotel. First, we dip into the pool, and then we take a little nap. It’s way too hot to walk around town.

    In the late afternoon, we stroll from our hotel to the Plaza Grande, Mérida’s main square and the heart of the city. It’s a great place to hang out and people-watch. There’s plenty of seating, including the Sillas Tú y Yo chairs. They are very popular in Yucatán and can be seen all over Mérida.

    We start checking off the main attractions of the downtown area. Among them is the Catedral de San Ildefonso, the oldest cathedral in Mexico. It was built in the 16th century on the site of a Mayan temple.

    Then there is the Casa de Montejo, a building dating back to 1542 that was once the residence of Francisco de Montejo and his family. Francisco de Montejo was the founder of Mérida. Only the façade is original; the rest was renovated at the beginning of the 20th century. In 1978, the building was sold to the National Bank of Mexico, which turned it into offices. There is a small museum dedicated to the Montejo family that features original furnishings and art exhibits.

    Another attraction is the Palacio de Gobierno, which houses the offices of the state government. Once you pass the guards, you enter a large courtyard adorned with beautiful murals and paintings that depict the history of Yucatán. When you go upstairs, you can also enjoy a great view of Plaza Grande.

    Then there is the Municipal Palace, the pink, Spanish-style City Hall of Mérida. Unfortunately, the second floor is closed that day, so we cannot enjoy the supposedly great view of Plaza Grande and the cathedral.

    While we are hanging out in the square, soaking up the evening atmosphere, we learn that an event is taking place at a park about a 30-minute walk away. The Noche Mexicana is an open-air event featuring artists in vibrant costumes performing a blend of traditional Mexican folkloric dances and live music. Quite enjoyable!

    On Sunday morning, we walk along Paseo de Montejo, a wide, tree-lined avenue named after Mérida’s founder. It is home to some of the city’s most beautiful buildings. These gorgeous mansions were once the homes of wealthy Yucatecans who prospered from the henequen trade. Many of them traveled to Paris, where they were heavily influenced by French architecture, as evidenced by the homes they built. That’s why the Paseo de Montejo is often referred to as the Champs-Élysées of Mérida. Today, some of those lavish mansions house museums and hotels, while others are home to various businesses. Several remain abandoned. A walk along Paseo de Montejo is simply not to be missed.

    Being there on a Sunday is a special treat. Since 2006, one lane of Paseo de Montejo has been closed to car traffic every Sunday from 8:00 AM to 12:00 PM for “La Biciruta,” a popular biking event in Mérida. It was fun to see locals (and some tourists) renting bikes from one of the many rental shops and enjoying the avenue.

    At the end of Paseo de Montejo stands the impressive Monumento a la Patria, created by Colombian sculptor Rómulo Rozo. It sits in the center of a busy roundabout and pays homage to Mexico’s history. The monument features 300 carvings that depict Mexico’s history from the establishment of Tenochtitlán to the 20th century.

    We end our stay in Mérida with one last visit to Pola Gelato, an ice cream parlor that we had discovered the day before. They have some very interesting flavors on their menu. Our favorite by far is the blue cheese apple compote ice cream—actually the reason we go back a second time.

    During our brief visit to the Yucatán Peninsula, we tried some of the region’s most famous dishes, such as cochinita pibil, slow-roasted pork marinated in orange juice and achiote and wrapped in banana leaves before being cooked underground. Another must-try in Valladolid is longaniza de Valladolid, a locally made sausage. Everything we bought from street food vendors was delicious. Mexico’s culinary reputation did not disappoint!

    It takes about four hours to get back to Playa del Carmen, where we go to a supermarket to buy beverages and heavy, nonperishable food while we still have the car. Once we return from our visit to the US, we will stock up on produce and refrigerated items for the next leg of our journey.