On our first walk from the marina into the walled city, we see an imposing military fortress on a hill outside the center of Cartagena – the Castillo de San Felipe de Barajas, a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1984.

Since the fort is one of the must-see attractions, we ride our bikes to the fort, get our tickets, and hire a private tour guide, as once again there was no audio guide available. But Carlos is a wonderful guide who helps us understand how this fort was built, explains the history and gives us a lot of interesting information.

The construction of this fortress was necessary because Cartagena has always been a sought-after place for pirates and enemies of the Spanish crown, and the defense of the city against these threats has been a priority issue since the first decades of the city’s existence. Once the primitive center of Cartagena and the suburb of Getsemaní were fortified (of course also with slave labor), the need arose to build a structure on the hill of San Lázaro to prevent an enemy attack from its summit, since it dominated the walls and the only entrance to the city, the Puerta de la Media Luna in Getsemaní. 

The fortress was built between 1656 and 1657, based on the plans of the Dutch engineer Ricardo Carr. The complete fortification of the hill, which turned San Felipe de Barajas into an enormous mass of stone, was completed in 1798 by the military engineer Antonio de Arévalo, after 36 years of hard work.

Built at great expense and with the lives of countless African slaves, the castle was one of the largest structures constructed on the American continent during the Spanish colonial period.

It is known as “the impregnable” because although it was attacked several times by the enemies of the Spanish crown, it was never taken. This was due to several clever features incorporated into the design. Among them was a 3000-meter tunnel system. When the attackers entered the tunnels, they were literally in the dark for a while until their eyes adjusted. As they stumbled through the tunnels, they were easy targets for the Spanish soldiers who fired on them from the casemates on either side of the tunnel.

The batteries were arranged so that one defended the other, making it virtually impossible to take one battery without taking the entire defensive system. In fact, the Spanish were willing to blow up their own batteries to defeat the attackers.

The fort consists of 7 batteries with 65 cannons, all facing away from the water to protect the city from a land attack. The sea side was already protected by the city wall and its batteries, as well as the underwater breakwater wall that prevented ships from entering through the Bocagrande Canal. This underwater wall still exists and was the reason we had to make this 14 mile detour when we arrived in Cartagena.

One of the most famous battles was the Battle of Cartagena de Indias in 1741. 

It took place during the War of Jenkins’ Ear between Spain and Great Britain from 1739 to 1748. Two previous naval attacks in 1740 had failed, and for the third attempt in March 1741, the British had opted for a combined naval and land attack. Under the leadership of Blas de Lezo, a Spanish admiral known for his unique appearance due to his numerous war wounds (he had lost one eye, had an immobilized arm and a torn leg) and considered one of the best strategists in the history of the Spanish navy, the Spanish defeated the British, who attacked with 186 English ships and 23,000 soldiers, with only 5,000 of their own soldiers.

Although built almost five centuries ago, the castle still stands and has undergone a series of restorations over time. While the original building material was limestone and coral, various materials including brick and concrete are being used for the renovations.

Holy moly, what a day!  We learned so much and got a better understanding of the history of Cartagena. Thanks to our guide Carlos, it almost felt like history was brought to life. Definitely worth a visit!


  1. Mark Fulkes Avatar
    Mark Fulkes

    I like the new format…and it should be easy to compile this into a coffee table book when your travels are completed

    1. Sailing Makaan Avatar

      I think this is a great idea! And then in large print so we can read it 🙂

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *