Next stop – the historic port of Portobelo, a beautiful natural harbor founded in 1597.

Legend has it that Christopher Columbus originally named it “Puerto Bello,” meaning “Beautiful Harbor,” in 1502. After Francis Drake died of dysentery at sea in 1596, he was buried in a lead coffin near Portobelo Bay, as commemorated by the present-day Isla Drake (“Drake Island”) at the mouth of the harbor.

The port was used by the Spanish Empire to ship treasures from the mines of Peru back to Spain (via Panama City on the Pacific side of the isthmus and overland to Portobelo). The construction of four defensive fortifications was intended to protect the bay of Portobelo.

Der Hafen wurde vom spanischen Imperium genutzt, um Schätze aus den peruanischen Minen nach Spanien zu verschiffen (über Panama City auf der pazifischen Seite der Landenge und auf dem Landweg nach Portobelo). Der Bau von vier Verteidigungsanlagen sollte die Bucht von Portobelo schützen.

Although English privateers and pirates destroyed them many times throughout their history, several of these atmospheric colonial fortresses still stand amidst village homes. Portobelo’s Spanish fortress ruins are of great historical interest and were declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1980.

Once the busiest city in the New World, the construction of the Panama Railroad (now the Panama Canal Railway) in the 1850s, and the opening of the Panama Canal in 1914 brought about its decline.

The small town invites us to stroll its streets, visit the two small museums in the beautifully renovated customs building, the historical museum and the cultural museum, where we learn a little about the Congo culture. The culture is a legacy of the African people who were enslaved and brought to the Americas during the Spanish colonial period and is celebrated through festivals, dance, music and art.

A visit to Fuerte San Fernando takes us into the dense forest. We found the round trip on a hiking app and decided that 2.3 miles should be doable. Little did we know that the trail would be steep and, due to the recent heavy rains, very muddy and slippery.

A German couple, Franz and Angela, join us and together we admire the interesting vegetation.

Since neither of us has internet, we are not able to check where exactly we are on the trail. We can only check our general position on the map.

Eventually we decide to walk back – better safe than sorry.

One evening, the skipper of a large schooner and one of the crew were playing at la Casa Vela, a small pizzeria run by Francesco from Italy. Together with a bunch of other sailors and some locals we spend a really delightful last evening filled in Portobelo with good food and music.


  1. Yolanta Avatar
    Yolanta

    I so look forward to reading your blog! Thank you again for sharing your incredible journey with us! May 2025 be filled with health, love and hope along with many more wonderful adventures!

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